Thai for "banana leaf," Bai-Tong offers intrepid palates one of the Seattle area's more top-notch forays into traditional Thai cuisine. Located near the airport in an unassuming building that once housed an old root-beer stand, this friendly little restaurant has enjoyed a loyal following since opening its doors back in the early 90s, with patrons granting high marks to such sensory delights as marinated chicken wrapped in a herb-enriched toey leaf, stir-fried vegetables served in oyster sauce, and vegetarian-friendly tofu curries whose seasonings are imported annually from Thailand. Reservations are accepted.

BELLEVUE. Loyalists at this family-run institution show up regularly to feast on well-spiced Thai favorites like crispy spring rolls, garlic chicken, seafood dishes, and classic pad thai. The lengthy menu also features plenty of vegetarian options, and the atmosphere combines relaxed attitude with upscale, authentic decor.

CAPITOL HILL. Situation: you're craving sushi, your friends are clamoring for lo mein, moo shu pork, and pad thai. Solution: Chinoise Café. This Pan-Asian restaurant chain (with four locations, all in Seattle) ignored the usual "one-cuisine" rule, and subsequently built up quite a following for itself. With nary a bad choice on the menu, you really can't go wrong, but favorites include sushi and sashimi dinners, tamarind basil seafood, and anything with Thai garlic sauce. Service is efficient and friendly, and there is a good selection of wine and sake.

DOWNTOWN. While the appearance of this downtown Thai may not earn high marks with finicky diners, the food certainly does. A favorite with the business crowd, due to the kitchen's quick turnaround and the great prices, Mae Phim has entrees that will please most everyone, from seafood to pork to vegetarian. If the lunch line extends out to the sidewalk, don't despair; the staff tends to get its hungry patrons in and out faster than you can say "peanut sauce."

BELLEVUE. Patrons are greeted with a burst of color when they enter Thai Ginger, thanks to purple walls accented with traditional Thai carvings. The menu is colorful as well, and a broad range of favorites includes pad Thai, ginger chicken, satay, and excellent stir-fries. The chef is happy to customize any dish, preparing it to your heat specifications (mild to nuclear) and adding ginger, curry, or lemongrass to further personalize things.